Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
Hi Steve and List Members,
Thanks Steve for the idea. Will keep this in mind for future projects.
Since there is nothing new under the sun, I am sure next someoneCA was not commercially available until around the late 1970's, so I think you are safe for any date prior to that.
- Claus Schlund
----- Original Message -----
From: "cj riley" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2011 4:19 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Modelling Techniques - Thin straps - Paper & CA
Back in the day when I manufactured kits (Industrial Heritage Scale Models) I found that paper cut and folded then saturated with CA
became like a piece of metal, Perfect for the chutes that loaded steam era hopper cars
Bainbridge Island WA
--- On Sat, 6/4/11, Stephan <email@example.com> wrote:
From: Stephan <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Subject: [STMFC] Modelling Techniques - Thin straps - Paper & CA
Date: Saturday, June 4, 2011, 2:04 PM
I have been fooling about with what I believe is a new technique for representing thin strap steel - e.g. the straps supporting
roofwalks, brake platforms, ladders etc.
These would have probably been thin, less than an inch thick. Modelling them with .010 styrene (scale nearly 1") has three issues -
one it is a bit thick, two I find the styrene does not take sharp bends well. And building up odd shapes from .010 styrene strip is
tough. Thicker styrene is easier to build up shapes with - but is even more out of scale thickness.
I have fiddled about with brass. While available in scale thicknesses of as low as 1/4", and folding readily, cutting can be
somewhat problematic, and once it decides to warp or curl, nothing short of a .44 Magnum will convince it to be flat again. Plus it
is not very flexible - so folds and cuts better be in exactly the right spot, and trimming to fit is tough. Plus CA resin to brass
joints are not the strongest.
A good sheet of typing paper is usually about .004 thick - scale about 3/8ths. It is cheap, folds nicely, is easily cut in strips as
narrow as 2 scale inches, can be cut to whatever shape is needed, and can be flattened again when it curls by means of water or a
thin coat of thin CA. Once reinforced by a bit of CA I have found it to have a good balance of strength, stiffness, and flexibility.
And once glue to resin pieces with CA, it stays put.
I have been laying the flat cut shapes onto a piece of glass, then applying CA, letting dry, and then trimming to length and
folding. If one is careful applying the CA to the top of the paper only, the pieces are not too badly glued to the glass. If not,
shucks. Scrape it off with a razor blade and cut another one. Trimming to fit once partially attached is easy enough, use a sharp
Xacto knife. Major cutting to shape after applying CA should be easy enough too, I ahve not tried that (yet).
Just tossing that out there, in case anyone else feels like fooling about.
No, I am not crazy enough to be using multiple different weights of paper to distinguish between 1/2" and 3/8" steel ;-)
Since there is nothing new under the sun, I am sure next someone will point out an article from a 1950s issue of MR using this
technique...cie la vie :-)
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