jonnyo55 <jonnyo55@...>

Another issue that one needs to be aware of, especially with acrylic paints, is the very subtle color shift that occurs in the 24 hrs. or so subsequent to application. The different pigments apparently migrate to the surface at differential rates, so if your color match is extremely crucial, shoot the paint, take a look, then wait a day and look again. I nearly drove myself crazy painting an F7B to match a pair of CB&Q "greyback" F7A's...a VERY difficult color to match; I ended up using a lot more yellow than I would have suspected.
John O'Connell

--- In, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:

A Mainline Modeler article, August 1990, recommends

FLOQUIL #74 box car red
FLOQUIL #88 DH10 caboose red

I used this formula and it turned out ok. The NP colors changed
after the war to a darker shade. But... I agree with Schuyler that
#88 is very inconsistent over the years.

The NP Society is supposed to be publishing a set of drift cards and
these have been very carefully researched -- I think once they do
appear they will be the best available reference for most of us for
NP colors.

Tim O'Connor

P.S. For myself I made a "chart" posted in my basement -- colors and
color mixes applied to a sheet of Evergreen styrene. It has 20 different
"box car red" colors. Colors can appear QUITE DIFFERENT when they have
dried on a surface, than when they are in the bottle!


The chart in RPC, Vol. 3, give the NP color chip match for Floquil as:
1 part Boxcar Red and 1 part Oxide Red
The only mixes in the table using D&H Caboose Red are for Alton, CB&Q, and NYC.

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