Re: Reweigh rules


Jim Betz
 

Tom,

Nice trick! I went positively -bonkers- several years ago when
I did up my own BN center beam cars - more than 160 individual
decals to apply to each car (IIRC I did 2 of them and still have
a couple more that are painted but not decalled in some project
box or other).
Which probably helps explain a lot of things about me you've all
been talking about for so long ...

****

So ... why not put the drop of water right on the car and put
the dry decal in that to float off and slide into position -
thus eliminating the transfer using tweezers entirely? In
thinking about it I think the next time I have some of these
small decals I will try putting the decal on the car with its
backing very near to its final location -and then adding a
drop of water over it and sliding "almost directly to where
it wants to be". Seems like it should work.

Is there a fly in this ointment?

****

Some other questions that have probably been answered before but my
center beam addled brain doesn't recall ...

If a car was off-a-wandering when it was time to reweigh ... was
it done by the other road or did it wait until it came back to its
home rails?
I assume the cars were weighed empty and not loaded - so were
cars routed to a reweigh location (for that purpose) or did they
just wait until they were empty at one of those locations?
It would seem that individual cars -might- have 'missed' their
reweigh dates by several months or even a year or more. Correct?

- Jim (C.B.A.B.)

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "pullmanboss" <tcmadden@...> wrote:

Bruce Smith wrote:

That's why I have very fine scissors and strong reading glasses at my modeling bench <VBG> I've lost count of the reweigh dates I've cut apart and pieced back together to get them in the correct time frame for June of 1944... Needless to say, I don't usually float single digits in a bucket of water when decaling either!
For very tiny decal bits I use a pin to place a small drop of water on the tip of my left index finger and put the decal on that. The decal will come loose in a few seconds but not float free. (That's why the "small drop".) Use fine tweezers to place the decal near where you want it on the model, then nudge the decal off the backing and into position. I use this technique for any decal smaller than my fingertip because it's much easier than chasing a floating decal across the surface of a water dish, or retreiving it from the bottom of the dish. (I use a shallow dark brown plastic cereal dish.)

Like many techniques, it takes longer to describe than do, and I suspect many of you have long since figured this one out too.

Tom Madden

Join main@RealSTMFC.groups.io to automatically receive all group messages.