Modeling truss rods


Joe Bower <jnbower1@...>
 

Group: Guess what! I just found this message in my "never sent Drafts
folder". I recall the subject was pretty thoroughly covered, but
nevertheless, for what it may be worth, here are my thoughts on the subject.
Joe Bower



Group: I have built many H.O. Scale wood, resin, and scratch-built styrene
old time freight cars using mono-filament, and basically as described by
O.Fenton Wells method #2 (1-29-'11 email). I prefer mono-filament since it
won't be bent out of shape as frequently occurs with wire truss rods.



I mask the turnbuckles so the unpainted mono-filament appears to be open in
the center of the turnbuckle. I use one length of mono-filament, lacing it
down thru the first outboard hole in the floor, sliding on a turn buckle,
temporarily passing the filament over the needle beams, (NOT over the queen
posts), then up thru the floor. Repeat lacing back and forth for each
additional truss rod. Since both ends of the filament are still free, it is
easy to uniformly adjust the truss rods to eliminate any slack, but still
not lifted onto the queen posts. Weave the two ends of the filament spirally
around each other across the floor, and temporarily lift the truss rods onto
the queen posts to check for the desired final tension, release back down to
the needle beam position. Tie off each end with an overhand knot at the
outboard edges. Secure with ACC or Goo. Clip off the excess lengths.



Very Important: For Box, Reefer and Gondola Cars proceed next to install the
Sides and Ends before lifting the truss rods onto the queen posts to prevent
humping up the car floor. Since Flat Cars have no Sides to stiffen the
floor, be very careful with the amount of final tension of the rods when
lifted onto the Queen Posts to prevent humping up the floor.



Joe Bower

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