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While my experiences with Archer Rivets have not been associated with frt cars yet, I will add the following:
1. I wanted to apply Archer Rivets to a replacement for an oil bunker top for the Athearn UP FEF-3 4-8-4. The oil bunker's top was a model of the excursion engine and I replaced it with a new plastic top. I used Archer Rivets for the rivets on the new bunker top.
Lessons learned: I applied the rivets to unpainted plastic. When I spray painted the new top I blew some rivets off. I simply reapplied them but this time, I hand brushed clear Polyscale paint over the rivets. Waiting until the paint had dried, I then air brushed again to see how the rivets would hold up. Noooo problem.
2. I wanted to apply Archer Rivets to a completed steel 200,000 gal water tank. In this case, the tank was fully painted....black.
Lessons learned. When I applied the rivets...in this case, both single lines and double rivet lines [ the radial tank car rivets ]...I immediately noticed that the black colored rivets disappeared when appllied to a black surface when wet. When the decal had dried, it became visible but was then difficult to position. My advice? Apply Archer Rivet decals to a white plastic surface. When dry, hand brush with a Polyscale clear. After drying, then air brush to the desired color.
Archer Rivets? I love them. By the next Prototype Rails at Cocoa Beach..Jan 10, 2013...I will have completed a new coal bunker for a C&O C-16 0-8-0 bashed from a P2K USRA engine. Also, I am planning to use Archer Rivets to produce a rather important UP Harriman head end car bashed from one of Jon Cagle's SC&F models.