Re: Coupler droop


Question 1: I am planning to use the appropriate whisker coupler, most use the #148. I have some #158 scale couplers but I'm not sure I want to use these on these basic kit.
Question 2: yes, so far all are the metall clip.
Keith Kempster
Jacksonville, FL
PS This may all be mote if I use Tim O'Connor's more "radical" approach, above.

--- In STMFC@..., Scaler164@... wrote:

Question 1 : Which Kadee couplers are you installing?  If you're using some of the modern "whisker" type Kadee couplers, t he 'droop' could be caused by the lack of the older style centering spring which helped to eliminate vertical clearance inside the gear boxes... assuming, of course, that the shank on the whisker couplers is the same thickness as the older couplers.  I haven't  thought to check this before, so I can't say for sure if there is a difference or not.

Question 2 : Do the problem cars have the old, metal clip-on lid for the gear box?  If so, one POSSIBLE solution might be to ever-so-slightly bend the end of this metal lid upward to help raise the coupler head to the correct height, being very careful not to bend it too much as to  pinch the shank .

John Degnan

----- Original Message -----
From: "hvyweight41" <hvyweight41@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 10:30:49 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Coupler droop

Background:I received a large lot of Athearn blue box rolling stock from my father. He's had these for years and decided he'd never build or run them. They all have hook and horn couplers. I want to replace them with Kadee couplers. I tried a set and there seems to be bit of vertical play, aka droop, in the draft box. What is the standard for droop, if any? What are the best methods for correcting out of tolerance couplers? I do have the Kadee coupler gauge and an NMRA gauge.
I've done some research and the options seems to range from replacing the draft boxes to shimming the opening with strip styrene.
Keith Kempster
Jacksonville, FL


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