Re: My first airbrush


O Fenton Wells
 

Thanks Bruce. Any suggested brand or model?
fenton wells

On Sat, Jul 27, 2013 at 2:18 PM, Bruce F. Smith <smithbf@auburn.edu> wrote:

**


Fenton,

While you can use a double action airbrush with acrylics, I usually
recommend that folks use a single action brush. The reason is that the
double action allows you to blow air through the brush. This will dry any
paint in the brush and presto! you have a clog.

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL
________________________________________
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [STMFC@yahoogroups.com] on behalf of O Fenton
Wells [srrfan1401@gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 9:50 AM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [STMFC] My first airbrush

Gentlemen, I too am going to the acrylic paints with dragging feet and
needing a big push. I have done a few acrylic paint jobs and one went
pretty well and the others were OK but I didn't feel I got the same results
as with Lacquer based paints, Floquil and Scalecoat, especially on resin
kits. I did like the ability to do a three color diesel in one evening
with the help of a hair dryer. I have used a Binks Wren B airbrush since
1972 when I was trained. What is the best airbrush recommendation for
spraying acrylics I have a double action Paasche Millennium internal mix
siphon feed brush that I have never used.
I welcome thoughts and suggestions from those who have been successful with
acrylics. Unfortunatly I feel the problem is really me as I have a habit,
when I'm comfortable with something and will hesitate to try new things. I
have not gotten comfortable with acrylics....yet.
Fenton Wells

On Sat, Jul 27, 2013 at 10:37 AM, Jack Burgess <jack@yosemitevalleyrr.com
wrote:
**


I used Badger air brushes for years, first single-action and then
dual-action. The dual-action ones require that you do two things at the
same
time...push down on the button to control the amount of air and pull back
to
control the amount of paint. It sounds very difficult. But the problem I
had
with the single-action air brushes (where the amount of paint is
controlled
by a screw adjustment) is that I'd carefully set the screw adjustment to
produce a very thin line of paint and once I started spraying, the tip
would
clog just a little and the air brush would stop painting and I'd need to
stop and adjust it again. If you feel that you could start with a
double-action air brush, I'd recommend that you do.

Bruce's advise about acrylics is good. I started out air-brushing Floquil
(and Scalecoat for brass) and still use Floquil, regardless of complaints
about color quality control. (When Testors announced the discontinuance
of
Floquil, I put in a $200 order with Caboose Hobbies of the colors I use
the
most...I think that I'll have enough to finish my stash of 100 resin
kits.)

All of the Badger air brushes were siphon-feed air brushes. After using a
couple of types of Badger air brushes for nearly four decades, I bought a
gravity-feed Iwata air brush after trying it out at a NMRA Train Show.
With
Floquil, I have found that I don't need to dilute the paint with thinner
to
air brush it...that saves paint since you shouldn't pour diluted paint
back
into the bottle (although I've been known to do that). I think that the
Iwata air brush is a superior brand but, for most of us, it might depend
mostly on what you started out with...I was generally happy with the
Badger
air brushes but I'm not intimidated by trying something new (unless it is
acrylic paints). <g>

Jack Burgess

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--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@gmail.com


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--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@gmail.com


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