Gize, I haven't tried it on resin yet, but ScaleCoat wash-away paint stripper works very well on every type of plastic I've tried it on. It is virtually identical to Chameleon, with a isopropyl alcohol base and butyl cellosolve (a/k/a 2-butoxyethanol) as the active ingredient. You can make your own, but butyl cellosolve costs about $50 per gallon (Sherwin Williams paint stores carry it, but in the back with the professional supplies). The advantage is, one gallon of butyl cellosolve will make enough paint remover for everyone in a large club! (Plus it is the active ingredient in MicroSol and Champ decal set, but that's a different story). If you take a quart bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol (make sure it is the 91% version, 70% will not work!), remove about 2 oz from the bottle and replace with 2 oz of butyl cellosolve, you will end up with about the same chemical mix as the commercial products. You do have the advantage of being able to modifying the blend to increase or decrease the butyl cellosolve concentration in the mix to adjust its aggressiveness. As always, try it on some scrap pieces first! -- John --- In email@example.com, <b.hom@...> wrote: Dean Payne asked:
"I know we've gone over stripping umpteen times... but I need some specific advice: I painted a Sylvan resin kit with some Testors enamel, but the application was too thick. How do I strip it and start over, without damaging the resin? What can strip the enamel without ruining whatever resin Sylvan is using? I have alcohol available, brake fluid too (old school!), but don't have ELO or Chameleon."
This is something I need to work out as well, as I've got some resin that needs rebuilding. I do know from other members' experience that brake fluid is definitely out! It will soften the model along with the paint.
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