Re: Working with dry transfer decals.


Anspach Denny <danspachmd@...>
 

Thank all of you who promptly replied with good suggestions on this subject, both on list and off.  

I took the suggestion offered on list by notable veterans Tim O'C, Bill Darnaby and distinguished others,  and successfully laid out the large dry transfers (ancient Letraset) on to decal film (Microscale). I did so keeping the art and tricks espoused by the good Rev. Doug Harding well in mind. 

 There certainly is a learning curve and (as always) the tool that I needed RIGHT NOW, my (rarely-used) burnisher, was no where to be found in the milieu of my otherwise well ordered bench. A #2 pencil had to do. It worked! When I at last   removed the masks, all the print had successfully transferred onto the decal film. 

Not trusting the adhesion, I gave the new decals a quick covering of Glosscote. When dry, I soaked them in water for about 20 secs. max, and after a quick application of Microscale red Micro Sol on the wood siding,  the decals transferred smoothly intact into place, where they immediately began to settle down very nicely over the surface contours and into the seams. I did some (too) early cutting through into the seams (no real damage), and I anticipate that this eventually will also  go well, giving the desired appearance of some age in the process.

At another time, I might use a more robust decal film than Microscale inasmuch as the ultra thin-ness of the film and size of the decal (a very large herald) made it very difficult to position safely. 


Denny S. Anspach MD
Sacramento




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