Re: Sunshine resale values..


Dennis Williams
 

Sorry guys I was away all day. I build as per instructions. If requested, I would put them on. ALL cars I build for people are used and handled on a layout, they would get damaged. Dennis


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On Thu, Mar 6, 2014 4:08 PM PST Nelson Moyer wrote:

Mike,

The quote attributed to Ned Carey is from my post.

I only itemized actual build time for typical boxcars. Stock cars and tank cars always take longer. Then there are those 'problem cars' that turn your hair gray.

Research and writing up car specific details can take days. I pay attention to whether grabs are mounted below or above cast mounting bolts (some Q cars have both in the same grab ladder), whether grabs are straight, drop, or half drop, sill step type, cut lever style, roof type, end type, lateral attachment details, location of brake components, etc. for each model. I also note any planned deviation in construction step order from the instruction sheet, type of trucks, lettering details, etc. I research the car history, number series, build date, and retirement date. All this is written up in Word, together with all the car pictures I can find. When I'm finished with the document, I have a complete record of the individual car or car series I intend to build.

As I stated earlier, weathering can vary from minutes to hours, and I didn't include drying times for paint steps.

Dennis didn't respond to my question about level of detail on his quick builds, but I'm pretty sure he doesn't install retainer valve pipe all the way to the control valve or install relief valve rods. I doubt that he uses clevises on brake rods, either.

The important thing is the appearance and prototype accuracy of the completed car, not the time it took to build the car.

Nelson Moyer

On Mar 6, 2014, at 2:32 PM, "Mike Brock" <brockm@cfl.rr.com> wrote:


Ned Carey says:

"I must be a really slow builder because I spend at least 1-2 hours cleaning
up the parts, another 2 hours on the basic build, at least 2 hours on bottom
and end detail, and 2-3 hours painting and applying decals. When I add train
lines, full retainer valve piping, dirt collectors, and relief valve levers,
it takes another 1-2 hours."

Wow! You make me look like a sloth or perhaps a glacier. I spend as much as
24 hours gathering prototype photos of the model in question before I get to
your first step....if I ever get there. Then I have to study the reweigh
date on the decal and that in the photos. Then, before painting I spend
about ten more hours reading messages on the STMFC about paint colors. Then,
if the model is of a class rr like UP, SP, or Santa Fe, I get to study their
historical society's books or articles on painting. Then I have to add
another 4 hours for a nap to recover from reading about paint colors. After
the base painting I have to research another period [ from one to 48 hours ]
to determine where the car operated in order to determine the final
weathering colors. Then I have to add in another 4 hour nap and perhaps a
few beers. Then I simply choose Polyscale Rail Tie Brown, mix it with an
unmeasured amount of water and apply it as a wash. Then, I look to see where
it was located during its last operation. If close to a coal burning steam
engine I apply a wash of grimy black...mostly on the roof. If the car was
not located near a coal burning stewam engine, I still apply a wash of grimy
black to the roof."

"I timed my last couple of resin kits."

Being unusually perspective regarding building resin kits, I never measure
anything.

Mike Brock

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