Re: Masking issue with Tru-Color paint - looking for some suggestio

Malcolm H. Houck

Further to this thread, I find it best to blast, at low pressure in the case
 of resin models, with aluminum oxide grit, usually preferring 400 grit or
finer. For paint removal on metal, locomotive, models I use a pressure
around 80 psi, then adjusting for best results.
As for primer, so called, most are simply another layer of paint. True, a
coat of a light gray on a dark plastic can help with final finish coverage,
but as merely paint if it won't stick, it won't stick. For years I have used
a product sold as "Stays-On" made by Steelcote; -- watch the spelling
if you Google to find it. A prime ingredient is shellac, and it is represented
to be specially formulated for non-ferrous metals. Due to the similarity of
 vapor odor, I've suspected for some time that the original Scale Coat
paint is based  upon the same, or a similar paint vehicle, whereas solvent
seems to be the same as either alcohol or lacquer thinner.
Even more to the point I've found that this product works even on resin
 models and wood models. In a pinch I've even sued a good fresh batch
of plain shellac' -- always remembering the old painter's saw that shellac
sticks to anything and everything sticks to shellac.
Mal Houck

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