How many members are there on this list? That's about how many
there are, I suspect.
But, for me, once I'm sure there's no
clearcoat on the model and I'm really
dealing with brass as my surface to
paint . . .
I wash it vigorously, soap and water, then rinse until I'm
really bored with
that, hot water will get any soap off. Then etch the
surface in vinegar
with salt added to a saturated solution. Doesn't take
long, maybe 15-20
minutes. Rubber gloves from here on.
I prime it
with Scalecoat 1, first, and bake it per the directions. Maybe
degrees for a half hour plus. This will give you a rock-hard
surface. Then the finish coat, or coats as the case may be, and bake
For masking, I use Scotch 3M 218 Fine Line tape, cut to
fit around any
protuberances. Cover any gaps in the taping with rubber
MicroScale's Micro-.Mask There's been a ton printed about how to
tape, pulling it back so it's coming off the model at a 178
degree angle (as
near to 180 as you can manage) so you're minimizing the
on the paint.
*There's been a bit of whining
about the demise of Dullcoat. Not from me.
I say "Finally." I have for
years used a flat photo lacquer, which is DEAD
flat. If you remember
Kar-Line models, which came with paint approximating
the finish on your new
car, photo flat lacquer would turn Kar-Line cars into
weatherable layout scenery in one coat. They were usually
Athearn Blue Box
models, hence "scenery" models. I bought a gallon of
McDonald's Photo Flat
Lacquer around 1985. Thinned to a ratio of about 5:1
sprays very nicely and really works far better than
Dullcoat. And I still
have a LOT left.
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 6:25 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Painting HO Scale Brass
have an unpainted brass car that I've had for a few years and I'm
around to painting it.
It's been quite a while since I
painted a brass car. Wondering what are the
best current methods?
the past I have baked on a primer, then sparyed the final colors.
always problems with paint adherence to handrails and corners /
I've tried "Blacken-It" on brass parts but it
"super-strongly". Of course blasting & cleaning are
Thanks, Paul Hillman
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