How many members are there on this list? That's about how many
there are, I suspect.
But, for me, once I'm sure there's
no clearcoat on the model and I'm really
dealing with brass as my surface
to paint . . .
I wash it vigorously, soap and water, then rinse until
I'm really bored with
that, hot water will get any soap off. Then etch
the surface in vinegar
with salt added to a saturated solution. Doesn't
take long, maybe 15-20
minutes. Rubber gloves from here on.
prime it with Scalecoat 1, first, and bake it per the directions.
140-150 degrees for a half hour plus. This will give you a
surface. Then the finish coat, or coats as the case may
be, and bake those
For masking, I use Scotch 3M 218 Fine
Line tape, cut to fit around any
protuberances. Cover any gaps in the
taping with rubber cement, or
MicroScale's Micro-.Mask There's been a ton
printed about how to remove the
tape, pulling it back so it's coming off
the model at a 178 degree angle (as
near to 180 as you can manage) so
you're minimizing the perpendicular pull
*There's been a bit of whining
about the demise of Dullcoat. Not from me.
I say "Finally." I have for
years used a flat photo lacquer, which is DEAD
flat. If you remember
Kar-Line models, which came with paint approximating
the finish on your
new car, photo flat lacquer would turn Kar-Line cars into
weatherable layout scenery in one coat. They were usually
Box models, hence "scenery" models. I bought a gallon of
Flat Lacquer around 1985. Thinned to a ratio of about
thinner/lacquer, it sprays very nicely and really works far better
Dullcoat. And I still have a LOT left.
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 6:25 PM
[STMFC] Painting HO Scale Brass
I have an unpainted brass car that
I've had for a few years and I'm getting
around to painting
It's been quite a while since I painted a brass car. Wondering
what are the
best current methods?
In the past I have baked on a
primer, then sparyed the final colors. There's
always problems with paint
adherence to handrails and corners / edges of
"Blacken-It" on brass parts but it doesn't adhere
course blasting & cleaning are first required.
[Non-text portions of this message have been