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  2. Krylon clear flat v. Red Caboose silver paint

Re: Krylon clear flat v. Red Caboose silver paint

Schuyler Larrabee
 

I will NEVER use Krylon on a model again.

 

Decades ago, I superdetailed an ABBA set of Athearn F7 units that I converted into the ERIE’s F5, 710 ABCD.  I really pulled out all the stops and they were really impressive, Protopowered, all four units and they could pull over 60 cars on the North Shore layout.  They have, of course, now been superseded by Genesis and other newer units.  I even got a large blue box that had foam in it, and they could be carried around in that box, just like a brass set.

 

I painted them with Floquil, and used Accucals and Accupaint for the yellow nose.  Lots of drying time between the two, and there wasn’t any reaction between the two paints or the decals and the Floquil black.  I overcoated them with Krylon, on the recommendation of a fellow club member.

 

So after about two years or so, one day I took them out of the box and they felt a little “sticky.”  And then I noticed the fingerprints in the decals.  And the wrinkles in the stripes.  And then the fellow club member said “Oh, yeah, I’ve seen something like that on some of my models . . .”

 

Hope someone can learn from my bitter experience.

 

Schuyler

 

 

I've been using Krylon clear flat finish in lieu of Testors Dull Coat
for awhile now with no problems. Saturday I prayed a Red Caboose 10,000
gallon tank car kit with it as part of the weathering process.

The Krylon reacted with the silver paint and "crinkled" it. The black
paint on the bottom of the tank and the frame along with the "Rustall" I
used on parts of the frame was fine.

I can't explain it, I had not had that trouble before, Just a heads up
to anyone looking to save a few bucks by using the Krylon.

Jeff White
Alma, IL
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