Re: etched roof walks on plastic cars

Andy Harman

A slightly different question... How do you remove a roofwalk that is humped or partially dislodged without kinking it?  They are often quite secure in other places and if they are glued with some type of CA, the bond has to be twisted or lifted to break it.  I have probably a dozen or more RTR cars with this problem and so far haven't been comfortable attacking it.  I know acetone will dissolve CA, but would also attack the paint and possibly the plastic depending on the formula.

Sent from my overpriced graham cracker

On May 1, 2015, at 6:38 PM, "Phillip Blancher pblancher@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...> wrote:

I used Canopy Glue to reglue the running boards on the BLI New York Central boxes, and for Plano running boards on Intermountain and Branchline cars. It also works great for adhering Kadee's delrin running boards on plastic box cars too.

Phillip Blancher
Modeling the Rutland in 1957
On Fri, May 1, 2015 at 6:23 PM, Tony Thompson tony@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

ed_mines wrote:

I've noticed roof walks "humping up" on higher priced RTR house cars being sold on e bay. Has anyone had this happen at home?

I bought a 3M contact adhesive between 2 sheets of release paper. You would peel off one paper, burnish the adhesive onto one of the items being glued and then peel away the second paper. This was ideal for etched roof walks but the adhesive smelled so irritating that I tossed all I had. Is there something similar without the smell?

    As always, I emphasize that the adhesive MUST be flexible, or eventually thermal expansion and contraction will break the joint. That's why I use canopy glue for this kind of job, have done for over 25 years, and have NEVER had any failure with a running board (Ed, note term) or diesel grille. If you're interested, here's a commentary on this glue:

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705
Publishers of books on railroad history

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