Re: Tru Color Paint Stripper?

Allen Montgomery <sandbear75@...>

I live in Arizona, where any paint can flash before hitting the surface. But I have been having big problems with Tru color, as you described. I too use an Iwata. I called the company and they recommended dropping the pressure. This did not work. My Iwata doesn't like 30 to 35 PSI. This only made the problem worse. The company also suggested using their thinner, which I have not tried. The best results I have had were to thin the paint even more, 25/75. This has solved the problem, mostly. To correct the models that turned out grainy I used a flow coat of super thinned paint, then the gloss coat for decals took the rest out. I didn't add too much more paint to the surface and my decal work went off without a hitch. Not exactly what you wanted to know, but it might be an easier fix for you. I hope that is helpful.
As a bonus WATCH OUT, look out for the following problem. Let me explain. Three days ago I was weathering freight cars, first with a grimy black wash from Floquil. I had maybe 6 to 7 drops left in my work pot. As I use the same thinner for Floquil and Tru Color, I left it in the pot and mixed up a batch of Tru Color Grime. I added the thinner first, then the moment I added the Tru Color it gelled up into a blob at the bottom of the pot, seperating completely from the thinner. Easy to get out, but a waste of paint. I have had smaller amounts of Floquil reside in a work pot, but there is evidently a tipping point.

On Thursday, May 28, 2015 12:22 PM, "'Nelson Moyer' ku0a@... [STMFC]" wrote:


Yes, I washed with Dawn, rinsed well, and dried. I'm thinking about rinsing
with 70% isopropanol after that on the next paint batch. I primed with
Tamiya Fine White Primer. I use White for white, yellow, orange, and red
final coats and Tamiya Fine Light Gray for everything else. I wasn't doing
model railroading during the Accupaint era, so I have no experience with it.

I emailed Tru Color at the same time I posted my question, and their
response came in amazingly fast. They recommend brake fluid. I asked them to
add that to the online FAQ.


-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2015 1:09 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Tru Color Paint Stripper?


If Tru Color behaves anything like Accupaint, an overspray of thinner with a
couple drops of retarder should repair the damage. Remember that AP and
TruColor are lacquers, not enamels -- they are just colors deposited on the
model and do not polymerize when they dry.

Did you thoroughly clean the resin before painting? Even the slightest mold
release residue can cause problems. I always prime resin before using AP.

Tim O'Connor

>I painted two reefer sides with Tru Color WFE Yellow last night using a new
Iwata gravity feed airbrush. Apparently, the gravity feed takes much less
air pressure than my Paasche siphon feed airbrush, and I ended up with flat
grainy sides from too much air pressure. The Tru Color web page doesnt
address suitable strippers for their paints, so Id like to know what to use
to strip the Sunshine resin sides without damaging them.
>Nelson Moyer




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