Re: Tru Color Paint Stripper?
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mwbauers
I now realize that my practices are not the norm.
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From the start I begin spray painting by using a test piece of scrap cardboard to see how the paint I’m using handles and what is the better distance to use to get the best results. I also prefer to use a paint like Floquil [which I stopped using a long timer ago] and my normal paint is Scalecoat that I apply in perhaps four passes to a side. I settled in spraying at about 15-pounds of pressure early on and see that the tutes are using 25-35 pounds for the same paints I filter for lumps, thin and spray at 16-pounds. I don’t know why the average looking slightly thinned paints I use work well at much below the now recommended pressure…… but they do. example.. I’ve alway upped the pressure for water based paints. But by feel to get the spray result I want on a test piece without noting that I should be going directly to 35-pounds or so. I don’t think I ever go that high. I do up the pressure for water based paints. But I don’t think I go to 35 pounds with the same common airbrushes that I use at 15 pounds. So I’m misting on the paint from a distance that works well with the slightly thinned paint under a pressure that others would tell me is just too low. I don’t know better. I just know that I test it each time before I paint a model and that it works so well for me that I’ve not had to use nor discover what the conventional settings had become. When I started spray painting ages ago, 12-15 pounds was recommended for thinned and additive gloss standard Floquil and I have that as my base setting. A good spray painting is a combination and dependent interaction of the pressure used, the distance sprayed from, the fluidity of the paint mix, and the chosen speed at which the airbrush is passed over the model while traveling from side to side. I must conclude that I really can’t advise on spray painting since my well-practiced method is seemingly not practical per the common recommendations. Best to ya, Mike Bauers Milwaukee, Wi
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