Re: Tru-Color and Accu-Paint reducer

Andy Carlson

I use either a gray or white primer for all Accu-Paint spray jobs. Adherence is probably the weakest aspect of Accu-Paint and a primer coat is essential in my opinion. Also, the opaqueness of Accu-Paint is somewhat compromised so to get good color rendition you need a light colored primer. I like white primer for reds, yellows and orange.

Most of my Accu-Paint work is for plastic/resin items. I like to use automotive lacquer for brass, though I have some resin cars painted with lacquer which look good (but that is not what this topic is about).

From: "Mike Bauers mwbauers55@... [STMFC]"


Does the stuff work nice with plastics ?

To give you a benchmark on that with me.......... I even get ordinary ScaleCoat paint [type-one] to work okay on plastics.

Best to ya...
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA

On May 29, 2015, at 9:01 PM, Andy Carlson midcentury@... [STMFC] wrote:

> Hello-
> I was convinced years ago by a Jim Six article on Accu-paint. Jim said that he reduced all of his Accu-paint with automotive lacquer thinner (much better than the hardware store lacquer thinner, which I use for clean-up) for his Accu-Paint jobs. Although a friend of mine gets good results with the hardware store thinner).
> I use "Hot Shop"automotive acrylic lacquer reducer. Called hot shop for use in hot weather so the lacquer won't dry before it lands on the intended surface, creating a dull finish. It is also called "Hi-Gloss" because its lower volitility stays wet longer producing a nice gloss.
> I am very satisfied with these results over the years, and I see no reason to change now. A gallon can is not too expensive, about what a quart of Tru-color reducer would cost. The Accu-Paint thinner had alcohol and acetone, which I believe automotive lacquer reducers also have.
> -Andy Carlson
> Ojai CA

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