Re: Airbrushing Acrylics


Andy Harman
 

I won a Badger as a door prize some years back, I think it's the 155.  Have never used it.  I use Scalecoat II as my preferred paint with a Paasche Millenium VL.  I've airbrushed the defunct Pollyscale with it but not as a primary coat.

Right now the only acrylic paint I will use is Tamiya, which airbrushes fine in my VL.

Sent from my overpriced graham cracker

On May 29, 2015, at 5:21 PM, "fgexbill@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...> wrote:

Given the thread about handling Tru-Color paints, I cannot remember if I have ever voiced an important caveat for those that might be interested in painting with Acrylics, which I have been doing for over 20 years now on both styrene and resin.


For the first couple of years I was using a Binks "Wren" airbrush with mixed results, often having to stop and clean the airbrush. That changed when Badger introduced their "Anthem" #155 that has a .76mm Needle and Nozzle or Tip, the issue being that Acrylics require a larger opening to be sprayed successfully. If you have been unhappy with your efforts with Acrylics, you may want to invest in a new AB with a larger tip and matching need. I know Passche now offers ABs with larger openings, their Talon can be equipped with a .66mm needle/tip combo for example, and Grex has large needle/tips combos also.


The 155 is a siphon feed and I spray at 20-22 PSI.


For cleaning, after I paint, I do an initial cleanse with Distilled water w/back flush, then Windex w/back flush,  water again, and finish up with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. This last step is a recent addition and now when I pull the needle out to clean it out it is really clean of paint. Regardless I pulll the needle through a Paper Shop Towel a couple of time, apply a dab of Needle Lub and rub it between my fingers a couple of times to spread it along the length of the needle, then pull it through a paper towell to remove the excess.


Bill Welch

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