Re: Hacking (not the electronic kind)


mwbauers
 

There is one more way to do the simulated welding. 

I’ve done road and roof tar lines this way after reading about others doing it. So I certainly didn’t invent it. For those you use a black or near-black paint to simulate the tar-lines, I’d use a more neutral grey for a weld line that gets painted over.

You  fill a medical or glue syringe with artists tube paint and shoot the line with it. 

For roads and roofs, you’d use a fine tip nylon glue syringe that might be too wide a line for car weld lines. In the hobby world of tools you could use something that mounts the very small blunt steel needles sold for very fine gluing. We do have some fine steel tipped glue syringes that would be perfect for this method.

I do have a bunch of insulin syringes that have a much smaller needle end than the nylon glue syringes have. If you have access to those, you could use them for fine, thin continuous weld lines.

The Archer weld seams replicate still more types of weld seams, and are quite worthy model details to apply for variety of detail.

Best to ya,
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi

On Aug 8, 2015, at 10:27 PM, ron.merrick@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

True, I would do the Archer weld lines rather than scribing, which I did thirty years ago and didn't like the appearance of.  I used to have to do things like carve off the second (water) hatch off the sides of Athearn F7 models, and carve and fill and sand to get a blank dynamic brake hatch, or cut up the Athearn "62 foot" tank car in order to get what we would now call a beer-can tank car, in the days before there was more than one producer of plastic F unit models and more than two different injection-molded tank cars.  That's really why I would rather come up with other ways to do this.

But this was really a what-if question, just to see if anyone had actually experimented with this.  One thing about STMFC-ers is that some of them are not above just about anything in the quest for a better model.

Ron Merrick

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