We did the M26a and M26d (Speedwitch minikit) on the Virtual Modelers list. That list, though innactive for years, does still exist and the archives have a lot of information about modeling these cars.
From: STMFC@... [STMFC@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 7:02 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Modeling the X29 and 1924 ARA cars
Bill, there are some caveats in modeling B&O M-26 subclass boxcars with the Red Caboose X29 family.
- Only the B&O M-26a class has a body represented in Red Cabooses' boxcar line. Riveted lap joint on the last panel, as discussed elsewhere in this thread.
- The kits are set up for PRR X29. The air reservoir on PRR is mounted crosswise. On B&O M-26, the air reservior is parallel to the boxcar's long axis, at one of several locations.
- After the same manner also, the rendered patch panels on Red Caboose X29 boxcars were PRR size, 12 inches high. The standard B&O patch panel was 15" high, and often spanned multiple panels. Start with a non-patch panel body and apply scale 15" high foil or clear decal sheets segments to render the patch panels.
- B&O decorated kits have an additional set of Tatum XLT ladders for the end and sides. The XLT ladders are too crude to depict barstock cross sections and end treatments, it just puts right the number of rungs and spacing. Undecorated and non-B&O kits do not have any alternate XLT ladders. I have some loose XLT ladder sprues for anyone who wants them.. Contact me off list.
- use Speedwitch Duryea underframe kits for later classes M-26d and M-26e. These cars also had the short truckbase.
For all such boxcars, I find that the Kadee coupler box is better than the integrated coupler box in the kit. They are both oversize anyway. Stronger with maintenance access.
An aside for the L&NE boxcars of this ilk. The o! nes that got aftermarket dreadnaught ends upon their last rebuilding also received Murphy roofs, not an available detail. I would seek any clarifications from the STMFC gallery for these cars.