Re: liquid cements for plastics

A&Y Dave in MD



Even with a little MEK in the bottle, it disappears so fast from evaporation that I felt like I was always refilling. And occasionally the tiny tube gets clogged if my ham-handedness pushes it into the soft styrene. I then have to soak it clean or poke a fine wire in it to clear.


While opening the Tenax lid, dipping a microbrush and then closing the lid when it will be a while between applications can take time, I feel I’m wasting less.  I’m not sure there is an ideal method.




From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2016 11:51 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Re: liquid cements for plastics



I don't have the patience for that process. As mentioned, I keep only a very little amount of MEK in the applicator bottle and I also always have the parts or styrene pieces in their final alignment. Whenever possible, I'll hold the assembly up over the workbench so that the applicator bottle of MEK can be tilted just a little below horizontal and touch the tip to the joint. Capillary action pulls the MEK into the joint.

Jack Burgess

I have dedicated two small natural hair paint brushes for MEK and Tenax application. I cut a hold in a 2 x 4 x 4 in. block of wood large enough for the bottles, and two other holes to hold the inverted brushes. I cut the handles on the brushes down to about 4 inches. This arrangement holds everything secure and within easy reach. I apply the solvents sparingly on the joint face or from the inside of the joint where possible. For small parts with stubs to fit into holes, I dab a small amount on the stub. The brush size helps control the amount of solvent that reaches the part, so you choose the brush size you need for your application. The old adage “A little dab will do you” certainly applies when using MEK. I have never used a bottle applicator for MEK or Tenax.

Nelson Moyer

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