Gary, I’ve built 24 of the flat kit Sunshine SM-18 stock cars, and after the first attempt as sanding where I damaged two slats, I changed course. As an aside, you can fix a few damaged slats with Evergreen styrene HO scale lumber matched to the board size of the slats. Be sure to use course sandpaper to approximate the wood grain of the original castings. When the car is painted, you can’t find the replaced boards. Now, for my method. I use a single edge razor blade to trim around the edges of the sides, and a #11 X-acto blade to remove the flash from the slats, working slowly and carefully to avoid knife damage to the slats. After the slats are clear, I run the point of the blade along the top and bottom of each slat to remove any residual flash. Then, and only then, do I lightly sand the backs of the sides to remove any residual plastic fuzz. I inspect the sides in good light for any remaining flash. I haven’t built a Westerfield stock car yet, though I have a RI kit in the stash.



I have a 14 x 18 piece of smooth tile (think counter top material) that perfectly flat. I tape three half sheets of sandpaper to the tile, 100, 220, and 400 grit. I start with the 100 and work down to 400. I try to keep an even pressure on the part, though with a large part like a side, I don’t have enough fingers. Avoid too much finger pressure as you slide the part on the sandpaper, and move you hand position to keep the back side as even as possible. I bought a diamond sharpening stone from Woodcraft upon Jack Burgess’ recommendation, and I use it for squaring car parts, but I finished all my stock cars before I got it so I can’t comment about sanding slats.



Bottom line is minimal downward pressure and mostly horizontal movement – let the sandpaper do the work as the part slides lightly across the surface. Use slow long strokes rather than rapid short strokes. Good luck.



Nelson Moyer



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Friday, July 29, 2016 2:56 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Westerfield stock car sanding





Andy, Jack, Steve, and others,



I’d like complete details of how to sand the back of the Westerfield stock cars. I’ve ended up damaging the bracing when sanding the back thin.



Do you glue the grit down to the glass? What do you do to have equal pressure on the casting? Do you just use your fingers (which did not seem to work for me)? Grade of sandpaper?



Any and all help greatly appreciated. I do not want to ruin another set of sides.



Thanks,

Gary Ray





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