Is there any one on this list who is using a "dentist's drill" for working
on model trains?
It turns out that you can pick them up these days for a lot less
money than they used to be - as in around $100. And with a
variable working speed of 2k to 35k and a foot switch and both
a straight and a bent handle, and some burrs (both cutting and
polishing). I'm thinking that the high RPM and smaller burrs
(bits) would prevent the tool from bouncing off the work when
using it to carve up a brass or even plastic model.
I don't do a lot of this kind of work - so my existing Dremel
pretty much fills the bill ... but if I had more control? Do they
"load up" in ways we don't want? I'd expect that they would
not ... but that's why I'm asking here ...
Also I just picked up a new "opti-visor" ... a stack of books
fell on mine and broke it (long story). It has MUCH better
optics. And came with 5 different power lenses (two at a
time in the fold down thing), a much improved LED light.
And a much better head band (more comfortable and
easier to adjust).
I'm actually glad I broke my old one!
- Jim B.