I suspect that whatever damaged the door(s) happened while
load was inside and the load was "undamaged" ... so this was
done to get that load delivered and then they would have sent
the car to be repaired.
How could both doors be damaged without the load?
I watched a guy using the forks of a fork lift to move box
cars in Yakima, Wa. back in the 80's. He was pushing cars
(one at a time) a couple of hundred yards down a siding that
had a road (actually more of a 'track') he could run on for the
fork lift. Mostly he got them started and let them drift to
where he wanted them. Rarely got it right the first shove.
He didn't seem to pay much attention to where the point of
the forks contacted the cars. The end, a vertical rib (if it
had one), the edge of a door, etc. And the ground he was
running on had humps and hollows in it (it wasn't in any
way at the same grade as the track).
And he was accelerating the fork lift very rapidly every time
he moved a car - in other words anything that caused the car
to resist moving would result in the fork point "gouging"
the car (or punching thru the end). Or an irregularity in the
'road' would cause the forks to dive/lift. Have you seen those
horizontal gouge marks on cars? This is my primary candidate
for how they occur.
And he would try to assist a car after it was rolling ... as in
come along side of it and match the speed (sort of) and give
it an additional shove (again accelerating rapidly).
I could easily see that operation taking out both doors of a
double door box car.
And since the industry was a lumber mill/yard the cars were
often double-door box cars ...
I've often speculated about how I might represent that
particular type of car damage but have never come up with
a technique that I was willing to 'sacrifice' one of my cars
to experimentation. Not sure if an old Athearn/MDC car
would have the same characteristics as the cars I tend to
use - different composition styrene and thickness of the
walls kind of concern. You -should- be able to do so with
some kind of tool that was heated just enough to assist
in the process. If it was "fork lift fork shaped" on the
contact end that would help! But the styrene will not
'react' the same as a steel/wood car side does.
Then follow up with appropriate paint effects (aka
If anyone feels they've "nailed this" please post a photo or
two in this group!
- Jim B.