Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>


No, I didn't think you were confrontational. But there's really not much to say. I just test the spray first to make sure it is shooting right before aiming it at a model. Then several light coats are blown with the can aimed just before the model, ending beyond the model on the other side. I usually let each coat dry a bit before going at the model again. Standard stuff. Sometimes it works well, other times not so good. Given the infamous clogging problems with Floquil cans, most of the primers shoot much better. Of course, weather is a factor. I can't do models when the temperature is below 55 degrees, and it's not easy when the wind is blowing.

I also do a lot of brush work on structures and figures with craft store acrylic paints, including Plaid, Anita's, Americana and Folk Art brands. These are also good for wash-weathering on freight cars, or just dabbing with a 1/4" brush on underframes. Right now I'm using these acrylics and a 0000 brush on some O-scale figures for a future English narrow gauge layout. Next step, buttons, lips and eyeballs.

I use a matte art acrylic spray as a sealer. Testors Dullcote or Pactra Flat were best, I can't find them anymore. Plaid Clear Acrylic Sealer from the art store works fairly well, except in high humidity when it sometimes dries milky. This explains my interest in the new Rustoleum product.

Yours Aye,


On 1/16/17 5:57 AM, 'Scott H. Haycock ' shhaycock@... [STMFC] wrote:


Once I read my last post, I can see where its conciseness might appear confrontational. That was not my intention. I really am interested in your techniques. I suspect a lot of modelers either can't afford, or are intimidated by air brushes and paint booths, yet know that brush painting is near impossible to do well.  That leaves spray cans.

Any insights you may have would be educational, to say the least!

Scott Haycock

Join to automatically receive all group messages.