Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish
Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
No, I didn't think you were confrontational. But there's really not much to say. I just test the spray first to make sure it is shooting right before aiming it at a model. Then several light coats are blown with the can aimed just before the model, ending beyond the model on the other side. I usually let each coat dry a bit before going at the model again. Standard stuff. Sometimes it works well, other times not so good. Given the infamous clogging problems with Floquil cans, most of the primers shoot much better. Of course, weather is a factor. I can't do models when the temperature is below 55 degrees, and it's not easy when the wind is blowing.
I also do a lot of brush work on structures
and figures with craft store acrylic paints, including Plaid,
Anita's, Americana and Folk Art brands. These are also good for
wash-weathering on freight cars, or just dabbing with a 1/4"
brush on underframes. Right now I'm using these acrylics and a
0000 brush on some O-scale figures for a future English narrow
gauge layout. Next step, buttons, lips and eyeballs.
I use a matte art acrylic spray as a sealer. Testors Dullcote or Pactra Flat were best, I can't find them anymore. Plaid Clear Acrylic Sealer from the art store works fairly well, except in high humidity when it sometimes dries milky. This explains my interest in the new Rustoleum product.
On 1/16/17 5:57 AM, 'Scott H. Haycock ' shhaycock@... [STMFC] wrote: