Re: Fixing Plastic Rivets on Resin Cars

Bill Welch

Good morning Nelson

I saw you message via email on the Resin Builders Group but for some reason I could not log onto Yahoo Groups to respond from my Laptop—I was out of town. So here goes:

I have only done this once. I used rivets harvested from an Athearn steel boxcar on the F&C Illinois Central SS boxcar to fill in where they were missing on the model when compared to photos. I used Testor's because it takes longer to work whereas from what I have been told MEK flames off quickly. I applied the Testors 3-4 times. The rivets are in a non-textured area, the steel plate along the bottom of the side. I am not sure it is strong bond but the rivets did survive media blasting w/baking soda and a light scrubing with a tooth brush.

Why do this instead of Archers? The Athearn rivets are a better match to those on the casting.

I disagree somewhat w/the suggestion of using #600 grit sandpaper as I think it is too fine. I think 320 or 400 would be better to rough up the surface but not in an obvious way.

Bill Welch

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