Re: Real Wood Floors in Gondolas—Board widths


Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
 

Hi Schuyler,

So do do tell - “How did you do that”.

Care to pass along any specifics for the rest of us to try out? Inquiring minds want to know.

Claus Schlund

----- Original Message -----
From: "'Schuyler Larrabee' schuyler.larrabee@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2017 1:09 PM
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Real Wood Floors in Gondolas—Board widths


I agree with Andy, though I also have used wood to model wood, for running boards especially. However, I used scribed styrene to model the wood floor in my DT&I Shake’n’Take model several years ago, using acrylic paints to do so. No scratching at all, no sandpaper to start, just right on the shiny white plastic – and I have received many compliments and inquiries about “How did you do that” ever since.



Schuyler



Hi-

At risk of being a contrarian: but any thoughts of using Evergreen Styrene strips? 0.060" is only 0.003" off from 5 inches. Tichy Trains has instructions for good weathering for plastic flat car decks in their instructions. Decades ago, Narrow gauge & Shortline Gazette featured an article where the best technique (in my opinion) for simulating miniature weathered wood was with layered paint on styrene; with scratching down to lower layers with a fiberglass erasure pen. I think real wood always looks like model wood--it lacks realism and I don't think that it scales down well. I have heard forever that "you can't beat real wood" for weathering. I disagree.



-Andy Carlson

Ojai CA



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From: "destorzek@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2017 10:51 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Wood Floors in Gondolas—Board widt hs?









---In STMFC@..., <fgexbill@...> wrote :

Actually what I am thinking is to glue down two parallel pieces of of .100 x .100 styrene using a piece of 6-inch wood to keep these parallel. Then I would initially push then pull the wood past a razor blade secured to remove one scale inch of wood. Still trying to sort out how to secure the blade. I may build a structure from styrene to hold the blade and glue the structure into place but still allow me to change blades.



I am sure an idea will come to me in the shower.



Bill Welch
==============
Bill, I think sanding is better. When trying to slice real wood with a blade, the blade will tend to follow the grain. It will either dig too deeply until it eithet stalls the pushing action or cuts the strip in two diagonally, or, if the grain is running the other way, force the blade out of the wood. These are all the problems one sees when planing wood with a hand plane, but the cast iron sole of the plane prevents it. Anything you can build out of styrene will have nowhere near the rigidity of a plane,

Brings to mind a point... did you measure the stripwood? A lot of suppliers don't bother to cut "six inch" scale stripwood to an actual .069", figuring .0625" is close enough.

Dennis Storzek











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Posted by: "Schuyler Larrabee" <schuyler.larrabee@...>
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