I have not milled resin; I have milled styrene.
I typically use a 1/8" diameter 3x (length--3/8") cutter. Mostly because it's common and convenient (two handwheel revolutions give a nice overlap when cutting on the vertical). Of course, I have many other cutters for specific uses. Right now, I'm using 4 flute. I don't see much difference when working with either a 4 or a 2; but I'm not doing production work, so I'm not pushing things at all.
Spindle speed--I don't know. I don't have a tachometer, though I do believe I'll get one, now that I think on it. I don't much care, as long as things work. I will say, though, that the cutter is spinning briskly.
My feeds for styrene tend to be in the .01-.02 range. When I've pushed that by much, melting starts. Again, since it's not production work, I just take baby steps.
My general setup for doing something like a typical one-piece house car casting in HO:
Do a rough cut and discard the excess piece, or save for later.
Clamp down on table--piece running parallel with table--use spacers underneath for clearance--add an internal spacer/spreader at the "open" end of the work (either glued in or clamped)--affirm that the piece is adequately square with the table
For a cutter I recommend a 1/4" 10x cutter with stub flutes. In particular, a Harvey Tool PN 982216-C3.
How I enter and exit the work is in the horizontal mode.
One could also mount the work vertically on an angle plate. Then "any old cutter" could be used.
As I think I mentioned before, the work is time consuming. But the mill is my favorite machine. And, as I also said, nothing can go wrong if the worker does his part.
I've shown you mine, Randy. Let's see yours. I suspect more folks out there will want to go the saw route, so detailed information on your methods will be even more important to the group.
How do you do this kind of thing with a small table saw: what blade diameter, what speed, what tooth count?
And, in particular, how do you do the setup so that the cut is both square with the work and consistent across it? And how do you assure yourself the blade won't grab? Do you use a sled or a moving table? And, since your recommended table saw is out of production and may be difficult to find, what saw that is readily available would you recommend?
I use various wood saws, both table and miter, and I would not mind finding something that would match the perfection of the mill but get the job done faster. I love using the mill, but I must confess that, if I wanted to batch out a dozen cars, I would get THOROUGHLY bored. So I am looking forward to new information on using saws for things like this.
And, also, thanks in advance for sharing.