Re: Decals and Future?

Jim Betz


  I've never had a problem and many of the decals I'm using
are the ones I purchased 10 or more years ago.  However,
very few of those are curled even a little bit because I keep
them in an old photographic print paper box and they lay
and stay flat all the time.

  Test first - pick a part of the decal you don't care if you 'loose'
and cut it out ... and then use my method (or any one else's)
as long as it is a "proven" process.   You can even test using
just the unprinted parts of the decal sheet.  This will also
allow you to perfect your skills with using the hobby knife
to get the decal off the backing and also to pick it up to
transfer it to the model.
  Many guys say they only slide the decal part way off the
backing and then pick that up using tweezers/cross locks.
I do that - some times - but most of the time the decal
floats off the backing when I pick it up ... so I end up
using the hobby knife any way.  I also find that I can
position the decal better 'the first time' when sliding it
off the point of the hobby knife than when sliding it off
the backing.  It tends to 'drag' to where I don't want it
when I'm using the backing.

  I predict that you will find that the curling goes away as
soon as you immerse the decal (with backing and film) in
Distilled Water.  And even if it doesn't it won't be there
after the decal is floated off the backing.
  I use a glass pie dish for my Distilled Water - because I
can see thru it (and be able to see the decal after it is
off the backing against what ever the dish is sitting on) ...
and because it provides plenty of room to get the hobby
knife under the decal film.  I use about 1/4" to 1/2" of
water in the pie dish.  (I use the pie dish a lot more
often than my wife bakes pies these days ... so it is
permanently dedicated to my collection of stuff used to
work on model trains.  *G*
          - Jim B.

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