No.  These are not dry transfers, but  form of waterslide decal where the printed lettering is printed on the underside of the carrier film.  The decal is wetted, applied to the model, and is allowed to dry.  If everything is working correctly, once you lift the carrier film, the lettering remains.  The problems I encountered were either the lettering failed to completely release from the film once applied and dried, partially tearing away from the model, or the lettering floated off the carrier film.  Since the lettering is very thin, it is very difficult to fish out and apply without damaging it.

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The way decals are made:

The carrier paper is given a coat of mucilage (water soluble glue.) When dry, it is given a coat of clear varnish; this becomes the decal film. It is possible to print this layer as spots, Microscale did this on some sets, but the spots have to be big enough to ensure the lettering is printed on the varnish, so people tend to trim them anyway. The lettering is then printed on the varnish. 

To apply, the sheet is soaked in water, When the water soaks through the paper, the mucilage releases the varnish.

Reverse decals differ in that the lettering is the first thing printed over the mucilage, then another coat of mucilage is applied over the lettering, then the varnish is applied. The initial soak frees the varnish and lettering from the paper; further soak time on the model frees the varnish from the lettering so it can be removed, leaving just the lettering on the model. Tricky to work with. The people who do it for the importers do it all day long and hone their skill. They also have extra lettering sets to replace any elements they bone up.

Dennis Storzek