Re: Wabash War Emergency Boxcar Part Five

Robert kirkham

So I suspect I know the answer to this question, but just how much magnification do you need to do this kind of work?  And what jigs to drill the small holes in parts for each “pipe”. 


Taking the time is one thing, but just getting the tools to bite in the right location and make useful holes . . .   Looks like quite the challenge.  All hand work, or using a rotary tool?


Love what you are accomplishing Bill!




From: <> On Behalf Of Bill Welch
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2018 11:20 AM
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Wabash War Emergency Boxcar Part Five


When assembling the brake system on a house car my goal is to make it look accurate when viewed from the side and take as a given it is always in shadow. I want to be able to "see through" places where there should be daylight like the chain links, rods, and clevices and that components are generally the correct shape and in the correct place. When viewed from the bottom of the car I don't much care how it looks.

Here are photos of the "AB" brake system on my Wabash WE car, all pretty typical for the way I do things. I do not routinely install a train line but on a whim I did here. I could not find my .015 styrene rod so I used .020. Because of the way I pin the chain to the brake lever and my use of shaved down Tichy turnbuckles as clevices I like using .010 x .060 strip styrene to make the two brake levers so I can use Tester's or Tamiya to secure the clevices and levers together. I chose to use the kit's brake cylinder, reservoir, and AB Valve to which I attached a Tichy Dirt Collector, a part I only recently started installing. I use .012 brass wire for the rods and coincidentally the Tichy turnbuckles are cored for .012 wire. After taking the photos I realized I have not attached NBWs to the Reservoir to make it appear it is bolted in place. I will do this w/Tichy NBWs. While I like the way my chain droops I think I need 2-3 fewer links.

Please let me know if you have questions.

Bill Welch

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