Re: Masking over Archer rivets
James E Kubanick
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My experience is identical to that which Al Brown describes. I use Scalcoat and Tamiya tape, also.
On Monday, August 6, 2018 3:27 PM, O Fenton Wells <srrfan1401@...> wrote:
I have another tale about Archer rivets. I added them to a boxcar. First I sprayed the car with clear gloss. Applied the rivets and it was a problem because the gloss hadn't dried completely. But I was in a hurry and kept going. After a week I started to proceed with more detailing of the car and noticed that the gloss had still not dried and I was leaving my fingerprints all over the sides. WOWZER not good. So I decided to strip it with Scale Coat stripper. I have plenty of Archer rivets so I figured they would go with the stripper. I don't immerse, I lay the car on news print and paint the stripper to one side. Let it sit then use a tooth brush and wash the paint off at the deep sink. I use less stripper that way and it works just as well. On some applications I have to do it 2 or 3 times a side.
After I got the clear gloss off, the Archer Rivets were still there....who knew.
Not saying this would work every time but it did this time.
On Mon, Aug 6, 2018 at 3:17 PM, StephenK <thekays100@...> wrote:
I have used another method for masking small areas (headlight lenses, for example) that are difficult to mask. I use dishwashing liquid (the kind for the sink, not the machine). This assumes a non-wood model. Paint a layer of liquid over the area and let dry. I usually put 2-3 coats on. Paint, then wash off after the paint dries. Note that I have never used this on Archer Rivets. (I have never used Archer rivets....). It's worth a try on a sample piece of plastic.