Re: Weighing Freight Car Models with Liquid Gravity

Jim Betz
 

George/all,

  First - I, for myself, would not put too much of a requirement on "non-toxic".
  Second - I would use white glue (or Krystal Klear) as the adhesive to hold it
                 in place.  Yes, it takes a long time to dry (24 hours or more some
                 times) ... so what?  It is a lot cheaper and it holds irregular shapes
                 much better than -any- form of CA.
  Third - I have a "life time supply" of bird shot (lead) that I am using and it
             works quite well.  So this product should work fine.

  I would want to weigh identical -volume- quantities of both to see if the
difference in the amount of weight is important.  At least one huge 
advantage of this method ("shot" no matter what material) is that it allows
you to "tuck the weight into lots of very small places very easily".  My
experience is that I can also use small rectangles of sheet lead to do
pretty much the same thing - without sacrificing any meaningful
amount of weight for the completed car.  When using sheet lead I
still use KK/white glue to hold it in place.
  If you thin out some white glue it will flow into the smaller spaces
easily.  The trick is to not get it so thin that it truly "flows" ... think
slow ooze and you have the idea.  I even thin out KK - some times -
if it isn't getting down in and around where I need it to get.
  At least one distinct advantage to using KK/white glue is that
it will form a coating that goes up and over the top of the
weight - which drastically decreases the chance of any of
the weight falling out.  I apply it so that some of it is on
top of the weight and the rest flows into the cracks/spaces
around the weight.  When applying to the bottom of a car
I make sure all of the weight has a clear coating of the glue -
and it doesn't ever fall out.
                                                                       - Jim B.

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