Re: Rapido NP boxcar, K brake question
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>> why don’t Mfg. blacken wheelsets? <<
Most if not all Mfg. actually do blacken their wheel sets - chemically. But if you are speaking of PAINTIING them (with black or a mix of rust, grime or whatever) this would make the car considerably more expensive as there would be several steps necessary to accomplish an accaptable result. Think of masking treads and axle ends and more difficult handling after painting.
Gesendet: Freitag, 02. November 2018 um 04:46 Uhr
Von: "James SANDIFER" <steve.sandifer@...>
Betreff: Re: [RealSTMFC] Rapido NP boxcar, K brake question
I also replaced the coupler. The Kadee copy used the old style Kadee spring and mine would not center dependably. I put whisker couplers in and that problem was solved. I also painted the wheels first thing – why don’t Mfg. blacken wheelsets? I had none of the problems you describe with trucks or truck screws.
J. Stephen Sandifer
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Matt Goodman via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2018 11:51 AM
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Rapido NP boxcar, K brake question
I just picked up my pre-war model a couple of days ago. I'll paint the wheels and truck side frames, and probably replace the couplers with #58s. As Eric mentioned, the existing couplers are metal Kadee #5 replicas, with metal knuckle springs. While I'm mildly disappointed that Rapido chose to use these instead of the path Tangent has taken, I did appreciate the rust color (which included the "air" hose).
I had to do some tuning to the truck mounting. One truck would rock toward one side of the car body, but not the other; the other truck would rock toward toward the car center, but not toward the coupler.
The root cause was twofold. The first issue was with the mounting screws themselves - which were poorly formed. The screw head and washer are a single part, but the washer is not concentric with the head - think of a cam lobe. I fiddled with the location of the lobe until I found a location that allowed the truck to rock equally in most directions.
The second issue was one of the screws was driven in crooked. The fiddling described above also mitigated this issue.
Although both were easily overcome, these two quality issues were disappointing given the cost of the model. The screw shape issue especially seems like it would be easy to fix - better screws!
On Friday, October 26, 2018, 12:25:16 PM EDT, Eric Hansmann <eric@...> wrote:
Yes. I got a four-pack of the Pre-War cars. Three of them will be sent to others modeling the 1920s and 1930s. Out of the box, these models look downright amazing.
In a quick overview I noticed a couple of things.
- The models have a 1937 reweigh date. NP lettering was spartan so a paint out and a 1925 or 1926 reweigh date will be an easy fix.
- The stencil on the air reservoir on the brake casting is upside down, which made me chuckle. It's hard to read as it is.
- The model has two grabs on the left end of the car sides. The uppermost grab will need to be removed for a pre-1930 appearance. Rapido only had one basic version made and used different paint and lettering styles.
- The models are equipped with a metal Kadee-like coupler that I will change out to a preferred Accurail Proto:HO coupler.
- The wheels will need to be painted.
I was told at RPM Chicagoland that the basic car represents the rebuilt version so the sheathing is not reflective of the original center-bead board. This is difficult to see at a 12-inch view. It will be a pretty quick addition to my 1926 fleet.
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io ] On Behalf Of Alexander Schneider Jr
I received mine, and I have a question about the K brake system. I don’t see any connection between the lever on the “A” end and the rest of the system. My 1928 Car Builders Cyclopedia shows a connecting rod between the two levers. I can’t imagine it would be between the underframe channels. Any ideas?