Re: Brake question for IC wood caboose
Um.. K brake has nothing to do with the complexity of the rigging. You still need to reverse the action of the wheel. I've attached a photo ops a PRR N5 underbody (model) that I based on the PRR drawing. On the PRR, these were originally equipped with KD
brakes and when upgraded to AB, the simply changed the reservoir and added the AB valve.
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Alexander Schneider Jr <aschneiderjr@...>
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2018 6:12 PM
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Brake question for IC wood caboose
Thanks, Dennis and Bruce. Since I’m building this caboose for a diorama where only major brake components can be seen, the critical point is that I need two brake wheels. And since it’s back in the K brake era, I won’t have the elaborate mechanisms shown on the IRM photos.
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io]
On Behalf Of Dennis Storzek
On Sun, Dec 16, 2018 at 02:33 PM, Bruce Smith wrote:
Not sure that's real clear, so let me try. Most cabeese I'm familiar with have a THIRD brake lever pivoted at its midpoint on a bracket on the center sill somewhere. the handbrake rod that normally ends with a chain connecting to the the
brake cylinder push rod connects with a chain to one end of this lever, with another length of chain connecting to the push rod. The rod from the other hand brake connects to the other end of this lever. Winding up either (or both) hand brakes pulls the push
rod out and sets the brakes; both hand brakes must be released to release the brakes.