Re: decals on wood


Nelson Moyer
 

Bruce,

 

I used a product from the local hobby shop that was intended for sealing pinewood derby cars to fill and seal a CB&Q BA-19  economy baggage car scratchbuilt using Northeastern Lumber Co. floor, sides, and milled roof. The product is Pine Pro Competetion Components Sanding Sealer. It’s most likely an acrylic product, because it’s water-based and non-toxic. I bought a 2 oz. bottle for $4.29, but that was around eight years ago. I applied several coats, sanding lightly between coats until I was happy with the finish. It won’t fill deep wood grain, but it works well on smooth pine.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Bruce Smith
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2019 1:37 PM
To: stmfc <realstmfc@groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] decals on wood

 

Folks,

 

I could use some help. I have been working on an ABC USRA gondola with an undec IM kit (in HO) and I'm getting near the end. I have the decals for this car from the ACl/SBD/SCL HS. Most of the lettering goes on the wood sides and as many of you know, this kit has actual wood sides. I have painted these black with Model Master enamel, sanded them, and painted on a a second coat. The paint is flat and so my plan is to give a third coat with Future and proceed to decal. My question is, are 3 coats (2 paint, 1 future) good enough to seal the wood and get good decal performance, or do I need more coats of paint to seal first?

 

Regards

Bruce 

Bruce Smith

Auburn, AL

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