Re: decals on wood


Ralph W. Brown
 

Hi Bruce,
 
It has been quite some time since I last applied decal to a car, but I had no problems with either decals or dry transfers. 
 
The decal were Champ or perhaps Walthers, and the dry transfers were from Clover House. 
 
In at least one case, I applied dry transfers to a Central Valley car that came with pre-panted side and end pieces. 
 
Most car were spray painted with Floquil or in a few cases Scalecoat (I), using a now long gone Badger single action air brush and cans of Propel (what a pain).  At some point I started using Scalecoat sanding sealer prior to assembly and painting, not necessarily in that order.  I used a setting solution on decals, Solvaset if memory serves.  I later began using a flat finish over everything, probably also Floquil, but not initially.  Dullcote was not yet in my quiver at the time.
 
Pax,
 
 
Ralph Brown
Portland, Maine
PRRT&HS No. 3966
NMRA No. L2532

rbrown51[at]maine[dot]rr[dot]com
 

From: Bruce Smith
Sent: Sunday, January 6, 2019 2:36 PM
To: stmfc
Subject: [RealSTMFC] decals on wood
 

Folks,

 

I could use some help. I have been working on an ABC USRA gondola with an undec IM kit (in HO) and I'm getting near the end. I have the decals for this car from the ACl/SBD/SCL HS. Most of the lettering goes on the wood sides and as many of you know, this kit has actual wood sides. I have painted these black with Model Master enamel, sanded them, and painted on a a second coat. The paint is flat and so my plan is to give a third coat with Future and proceed to decal. My question is, are 3 coats (2 paint, 1 future) good enough to seal the wood and get good decal performance, or do I need more coats of paint to seal first?

 

Regards

Bruce

Bruce Smith

Auburn, AL

Join main@RealSTMFC.groups.io to automatically receive all group messages.