Re: Riveting Thoughts


Bill Welch
 
Edited

Hi Marty, great seeing you at CCB. I use both. I find Archer's very handy for long run of rivets as on a side panel of a boxcar but more commonly for me the side of an end. The attached photo of the laft side shows Archers along the side of the end. The rivets along the sill are harvested.

I harvest rivets for areas where there small groups of rivets as on the USRA composite gon photos I posted this morning. My most common source for harvesting is the so-called Blue Box Athearn 40-foot boxcar that has been around for what, a half Century. Secondarily I use their Mill Gondola with slightly larger rivets. I have experimented w/limited success using their 50-foot SD steel boxcar for very small rivets but this a very tedious. Athearn molds their bodies in black so I generally run a Silver Sharpie over the rivet course—once in each direction—before peeling them up with a single edge razor blade. Doing so helps me distinguish the domed side from the flat side. I like to use a dulled Testors disposible hobby knife because it is light weight and will not roll. I use spittle on the knife to pick up the rivets. I prefer Testers liquid cement as it dries slowly. I used a 0/10 brush to place a dot of glue where the rivet will go and then place the rivet with the knife. After about a half hour I go back and add another dot of glue just to make sure. The next day I use the dull hobby knife to try to flick the rivets off and usually fail to do so. I have had success using this method on media blasted resin also.

The attached photo of a resin body shows how harvested rivets where applied to a styrene pattern that when cast the harvested rivets survived the casting process.

Hope this helps you and others. While harvesting rivets sounds daunting, with practice it goes quickly and is well worth doing it.

Bill Welch

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