Hello Group!
Andy's note below reminded me of one of our model railroading god-fathers, Mr William Clouser, once of the Saint Louis neighborhood. Respected scratch builder and professional model builder, he authored in the March 1959 Model Railroader an article on painting models using an air brush. His favorite primer? Auto finish lacquer from an appropriate store. I believe he worked with a gallon size decanting into smaller containers for convenience. Most of us would not need so much. His article has been a lifetime reference for me.
Mike Schleigh of Grove City, Penna., Land of Vortex
On Friday, February 1, 2019, 8:27:29 PM EST, Andy Carlson <midcentury@...> wrote:
Years ago a very prolific and excellent professional painter told me he used an auto body product for priming his steam locomotives (and I see no reason that resin kits couldn't benefit as well).
It was called a non-sanding primer, meant to be used before color was applied in the re-finish work done at collision repair shops.
This stuff was NOT a surfacer, which is the commonly used primer which builds thickness which allows pre-color block sanding. The non-sanding goes on smooth and if shot over a smooth surface, this last primer is ready for color paint after it dries. This is the trait which allows good model priming, and as a lacquer type of finish, it is quick drying, another useful modeling trait. Auto lacquer primers seem to be universally OK with many different types of paints, water based and solvent based.
I have not yet acquired any of this yet, so I have no experience so far. -Andy Carlson Ojai CA
On Friday, February 1, 2019, 5:01:05 PM PST, Denny Anspach <danspachmd@...> wrote:
I appreciate the many suggestions for water-based acrylics, but…... I use only solveny- based paints.
Tim expresses skepticism about TruColor flat black being only “brushable”, as well he might. My information came directly by phone from one of TruColor’s owners in Phoenix, and I am sure it has something to do with why my tries with this thinned paint with an airbrush have not been satisfactory.’'
I am not adverse to using rattle cans from the hardware store, except that for the fine small work that we commonly do, the lack of control and the very wide pattern promises to cause a lot of mischief, not mention waste and paint scatter. I have often though of emptying one of these cans into a receptacle and then using it again through an air brush. Has anyone tried this? It would be relatively cheap, I would think.
Off list, I have received a strong vote for Tamiya flat black,, and I am going to try it. So far, Tamiya (solvent) is the most consistent rising star in my model painting world, and incrementally I use them more and more.
Denny
Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento, CA 95864
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