Re: Flat Black

Rod Miller

On 2/1/19 5:00 PM, Denny Anspach wrote:
I appreciate the many suggestions for water-based acrylics, but…... I use only solveny- based paints.
Tim expresses skepticism about TruColor flat black being only “brushable”, as well he might. My information came directly by phone from one of TruColor’s owners in Phoenix, and I am sure it has something to do with why my tries with this thinned paint with an airbrush have not been satisfactory.’'
I am not adverse to using rattle cans from the hardware store, except that for the fine small work that we commonly do, the lack of control and the very wide pattern promises to cause a lot of mischief, not mention waste and paint scatter. I have often though of emptying one of these cans into a receptacle and then using it again through an air brush. Has anyone tried this? It would be relatively cheap, I would think.
Off list, I have received a strong vote for Tamiya flat black,, and I am going to try it. So far, Tamiya (solvent) is the most consistent rising star in my model painting world, and incrementally I use them more and more.
Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento, CA 95864
I am particularly fond of SEM Trim Black designed for use
of external automotive trim. It is solvent-based and is
available in rattle cans and quarts. It dries to a satin
finish. I use it for steam locomotives among other things.
The rattle cans are great for painting small items without
setting up and cleaning the air brush.

It can be handled soon after application but the instructions
say to allow 2 days for complete curing, I presume to achieve
the hardness level needed for the exterior of a vehicle.

The rattle can puts out lots of paint so use short bursts
while moving it fast.

Like lacquer, it can be sanded. Many a boiler has been sanded
then over sprayed with clear which concealed the fine scratches.

Rod Miller
Custom 2-rail O Scale Models: Drives,
Repairs, Steam Loco Building, More

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