Re: Scratchbuilding a car in styrene

Andy Carlson

I have a technique which I have used for making Z-bars for Single sheathed cars. Using a NWSL riveter with a 0.010" riveter, I make a row of rivets the length of a styrene sheet. After that I slice off the styrene almost to the rivet strips. Next I slice the rivet strips from the mother sheet of styrene to nthe desired width. Then one can attach this flat strip of linear rivets to the car side. Then a 0.020" x 0.020" Evergreen styrene strip along the edge furthest from the rivets completes the Z-bar. I know that the boards were mounted with carriage bolts from the inside, with often a square nut on the visible nface. This is something I can live without. mI have a picture of one of the subject WP cars after rebuilding in 1937 into na 8 panel stock car. The Z-bars are done in my mentioned manner. This stock car was assembled by Tom Lawler a long time ago with a kit I made even longer ago.

As for scribing single sheathing, I have not scribed lines for decades. A new Exacto #11 blade run the full length at an even pressure (important). After this step, knock down the raised edges with something smooth. This is my method as I have disliked scribbed board spacings for since forever. You may like having those grooves, if so my method would not be your choice.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

On Saturday, March 2, 2019, 6:01:52 AM PST, Fred Jansz <fred@...> wrote:

Hi all,
Since there's no model or kit commercially available of WP's first (1916) Pullman-built box car -and there won't be in the near future I understand- I chose to try to build one myself.
Since I'm not afraid to rebuild, refine, DCC & paint brass engines or kitbash existing plastic or styrene models and kits, I thought; well let's give it a go.

First problem I encountered was scribing the styrene horizontally, to resemble the 5 1/4" T&G sheating.
For this I used various tools, obviously all not suited for making a clean gap: knife, sharpened dentist pick, 'scriber'.
So the question is; how do you make a clean cut in styrene without damaging the edges?

Second problem I encounterd was the Z-bracing.
The 3" bracing is not available in HO-scale, 5" is, but widht is too large.
So I decided to make my own from strip sryrene.
At least I thought I could, since gluing these tiny pieces together to form a Z-shape is only possible when you're a robot.
However, I succeeded to produce exactly one 3" Z-bar in half an hour.

But now the third issue came along: how to resemble the hundreds of 1/2" SQUARE thin head bolts that were used to slap this car together?
I'm aware Archer makes more or less the correct size, but these are dots, not squares.

If the above problems could be solved, I could try -again- to build this WP car.
For the moment I called it quits.

The 15001-series car ran (renumbered) untill the end of WP and is a 'landmark' WP car that's dearly missed in my WP collection.
I even have drawings of the unique run board saddles that could be replicated as brass etchings.
Hope the pros in this group can give me some how to advise, so I can build this car following the Pullman drawings.
Thank you for your assistance.

best regards
Fred Jansz

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