Re: Scratchbuilding a car in styrene


Earl Tuson
 

Bill Welch restates regarding modeling Z bar framing:

.005 for the base on the side of the car, then the .020 x .020 and .010 x .030 assembly glued to it to
complete the assembly.
Many (many!) moons ago, I had started an effort on an S scale single sheathed box car pattern, and I took
a slightly different approach in order to help pull the castings from the mold: instead of the “.020 x .020
and .010 x .030 assembly”, I used a S equivalently sized square strip and chamfered one edge. Upon
casting, the chamfer gave the appropriate “dark space” expected of the Z bar, but avoided the 90 deg
angles that would lead to premature mold failure. (Eventually, I used this technique with success on a
resin GN DS ARA Xm car side were the framing just shows below the bottom of the outer sheathing; the
molds held up quite well at those locations.)

A place where my pattern fell down, however, was that I failed to chamfer the sheathing boards as both Bill
and Dennis have suggested. While I wasn’t about to use scribed siding, my square edge sheathing boards
just blended into one another. Trying to offset their outer surfaces slightly just did not work; the look
simply did not match what can be seen in photos. It became a bit of a caricature. Thank you, Bill and
Dennis, for that simple tip that never dawned on me.

Bill, similar to your technique, I lightly sanded the sheathing boards. I suspect you’ll agree that it’s not the
“wood grain” that is important to us, just that they reflect light differently than the “steel” parts do.

Earl Tuson

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