Re: Removing car numbers on Walthers cars.

BRIAN PAUL EHNI
 

I use one of these. If the printing still resists, I use an ink eraser. The erasers that come with this are for pencil marks.

 

 

Thanks!
--

Brian Ehni

 

 

From: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Peter Ness <prness@...>
Reply-To: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Date: Friday, May 24, 2019 at 12:24 PM
To: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Removing car numbers on Walthers cars.

 

[Edited Message Follows]

In ancient times when dinosaurs ruled the earth I saw a cave painting or stone tablet showing a modeler using a typewriter correction pencil - not the round wheel type - complete with brush on the opposite end, to remove lettering "printed" (I don't think it was heat stamped) from a freight car side. My Mom gave me such an eraser pencil she brought home for work and I tried it with Micro-sol as a cutting medium and it worked like a charm. About a decade or so ago, I lost my typewriter eraser in a house move. At that time I searched for a reasonable alternative and came across the Faber Castell 7056 eraser stick - they produce a couple of different flavors, but this one has the pink-colored eraser material that reminded me of my old one.

I put some Micro-sol over the area I want to remove and have a go at it. Usually I am done with one area in 10 minutes or less.The "erased" surface is clean, glossy and ready for decals.  I have used this on old, enamel or lacquer-painted models as well as new acrylic and "ink-based" painted models with equal success. I sharpen the point when working on a model with lettering next to ribs or bracing, otherwise it only gets sharpened if the tip gets "gunked up". A broad, dull tip covers more surface area so removal goes faster.  

(whoops! forgot to sign)
Peter Ness

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