Re: RI 141000 - 142000 single sheathed XM


Steve and Barb Hile
 

Ron,
 
While the lettering diagrams show all types cars with the block lettering, it is not likely that many older ones actually were repainted as such but some cars certainly were.
 
I have a Bob's photo of 141589 with the full block style lettering.  It was painted in August of 1958 and weighed in 1961.  I also have a Bill Raia photo, taken in 1964 or 141618 that also has the full block lettering it might carry an April 1958 painted date and a 61 weigh date.  This one no longer has the high tack board on the door, just the two vertical strips that once held the boards.  At about the same time, Bill photographed RI 141055 where the RR Roman road name is about completely faded away and the reporting marks are much brighter, but still in RR Roman style.  It has a 1959 weigh date, so those numbers are legible, but the adjoining words have disappeared.
 
I hope this is useful.  If you model 58-60 and use the block letters, they should be pretty fresh although it is likely that the body paint itself was fairly thinly applied.  I would not expect to see the block lettering scheme much before 1958.
 
Steve Hile



From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of mopacfirst
Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2019 7:28 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] RI 141000 - 142000 single sheathed XM

One more question.  The Sunshine sheet for this car mentions that "in the Fifties, the name was changed to block lettering".  This refers to the decals being the as-built railroad roman style, and the use of the later block-style ROCK ISLAND name.  If I'm going to model a late-fifties car, how common was this?  Were the reporting marks often stencilied in this newer style also?  And were any of these cars newly painted by the late fifties?

I have this car built and painted, and I've been trying something on recent Sunshine builds.  I assemble the roofwalk and laterals, using 0.015 or so styrene under the laterals to attach them, then paint the assembly some faded wood color.  After the rest of the car is painted, I attach the roofwalk using Barge.  I still put 20 old C&BT stainless weights on top of the roofwalk to let it set overnight, but this allows me to get it correctly positioned.   This painting the roofwalk prior to attachment helps get the roof completely painted (avoiding my previous practice of slathering some boxcar red on the car roof with a brush during assembly), and makes the often-deteriorating roofwalks stand out better.

Ron Merrick

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