Re: coupler distance over car end

Dennis Storzek <destorzek@...>

On Tue, Mar 3, 2020 at 08:07 AM, vapeurchapelon wrote:
One problem is that most brass cars don't have a coupler box already in place but just a cut-short at a non-defined place center sill instead, and several models obviously have the threads for the coupler box set at a wrong place...
It's not just brass cars. Since ALL the couplers available to the hobby, except for the Kadee #711 "Old Time" coupler, the Sergent, and the PROTO:HO Accumate were/are oversize, there has always been two schools of thought as to where to place the 'coupler box' on the model, since this part really doesn't model anything that's on the prototype car. One school basically said to put the end of the box at the prototype striker location, leaving the oversize coupler to be the modeler's problem. The other school said to move the coupler box back, so the distance between coupled cars would be correct when using the commonly available couplers. The problem with that strategy is to move the pulling face of the knuckle back where it belongs, the projection of the box past the end sill disappears, which doesn't look right either. So, most plastic kit floors have the box end somewhere between those two extremes. Fortunately, today's scale size couplers come with their own boxes, so those who care can do their research and mount the box in the correct location. Of course, if you model the pre-WWI MCB era, you're back to the same problem of oversize couplers. The Kadee 711 is the right size, as it's their HOn3 coupler equipped with a longer trip pin, but it's not very pleasing to look at.

Dennis Storzek

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