Re: coupler distance over car end


Hello to all repliers,
please excuse the delay. Ed, Dennis, this is all great information again! Lots of thanks! Jim, all my models HAVE to run good to excellent, and as I mentioned some weeks ago when I linked a clip of my freight train shot at an exhibition, I am investing all the time needed (which unfortunately can be really "excessive" on some models with numerous or serious problems) to get them track very well, roll great, without wobbling, and of course with correct coupler height (plus lots of repairs, enhancements, detail corrections, etc...). Now with the necessary correction of the coupler box position on several cars it is even more work since the new thread - per Murphys rule - of course isn't far enough away from the current thread that one just could drill a new hole - no, I have to cut away the floor section and solder in a new one :-)))
Dennis, thanks for pointing out these two schools of thought. It seems that I am looking for or already doing a combination of both - but I am sure most will call it "weird" so I won't recommend but just mention it! As already written I am using the narrow coupler box from Kadees #178 (which in my eyes looks even better than the #262 narrow box), but I am inserting the short #153 coupler. Because I know that these "semi-scale" coupler heads still are oversized I file away some material from the coupler head back face (of course both atop and below the shank) to get the coupler move freely in the box. Of course that short coupler won't swivel side to side in that box as much as the recommended-size coupler - but still more than enough for operations on radii above 30" or so. Our standard at the FREMO is a minimum of 40" (and not very much less on sidings).
Interesting to learn about the problem with pre-WWI, fortunately I don't model that era (which nonetheless is VERY interesting, of course!)
Many thanks again to all who replied!
modeling the early post-war years up to about 1953
Gesendet: Dienstag, 03. März 2020 um 20:17 Uhr
Von: "Dennis Storzek" <destorzek@...>
Betreff: Re: [RealSTMFC] coupler distance over car end
On Tue, Mar 3, 2020 at 08:07 AM, vapeurchapelon wrote:
One problem is that most brass cars don't have a coupler box already in place but just a cut-short at a non-defined place center sill instead, and several models obviously have the threads for the coupler box set at a wrong place...
It's not just brass cars. Since ALL the couplers available to the hobby, except for the Kadee #711 "Old Time" coupler, the Sergent, and the PROTO:HO Accumate were/are oversize, there has always been two schools of thought as to where to place the 'coupler box' on the model, since this part really doesn't model anything that's on the prototype car. One school basically said to put the end of the box at the prototype striker location, leaving the oversize coupler to be the modeler's problem. The other school said to move the coupler box back, so the distance between coupled cars would be correct when using the commonly available couplers. The problem with that strategy is to move the pulling face of the knuckle back where it belongs, the projection of the box past the end sill disappears, which doesn't look right either. So, most plastic kit floors have the box end somewhere between those two extremes. Fortunately, today's scale size couplers come with their own boxes, so those who care can do their research and mount the box in the correct location. Of course, if you model the pre-WWI MCB era, you're back to the same problem of oversize couplers. The Kadee 711 is the right size, as it's their HOn3 coupler equipped with a longer trip pin, but it's not very pleasing to look at.

Dennis Storzek

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