Re: Painting brass
Oh yeah, it was well-done alright.
It was wondering what that sound was coming from the kitchen, the tink, tink, tink, which turned out to be turned brass air tanks from several Alco C-420 frames hitting the cookie sheet.
I can laugh about it now.
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] on behalf of John Larkin via groups.io [jflarkingrc@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2020 3:56 PM
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Painting brass
Did you consider the model to be "well-done" after the first baking? (Groan!)
On Saturday, April 18, 2020, 2:52:12 PM CDT, BRIAN PAUL EHNI <bpehni@...> wrote:
In my case, I have to set the oven to 170ºF, because it won’t go any lower. So when it hits 150ºF, I’d put the model in and turn it off.
<main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Mont Switzer <MSwitzer@...>
Many years ago I learned a hard lesson about baking brass models. In conjunction with that lesson I also got to learn how to re-assemble some brass models. After that I still used Mrs. Switzer's oven, but I went about it differently. I now use the following steps:
1. preheat the oven to 150 degrees (I'm not disagreeing with 185 degrees)
2. when the light indicates the oven is at 150 degrees (pre-heat completed) turn it off
3. insert models
4. allow oven to cool and remove models
The bad experience I had may have been a defect in the oven, but I'm not going to find out a second time. I had placed the models in the oven and set it to pre-heat to 150 degrees. It appears that during the pre-heating process the oven went well above 150 to bring the oven to the desired temperature. That temperature was high enough to melt solder.
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] on behalf of bob.stetser@... [bob.stetser@...]
Soak in lacquer thinner for a couple of hours to remove whatever is on the model.