Re: Help with decals


Schuyler Larrabee
 

Already dullcoated . . .

*sigh*

Yes, it can be done, but it ain’t easy, and it can be a bit scary.  As I mentioned before I use a single edge razor blade, as it’s sharper than most anything else.  Pull the blade directly though the area that’s showing the blush, hard enough to get through both the dullcoat and into the decal.  Then flood the area with the decal setting solution, and see if it will bleed through your cut under the decal.  If so, that’s good, but it will take a longer time to dry  You’ll probably have to do this a fair number of times.

 

This also tends to result in a car that would benefit from some strategic weathering.  OTOH, you may find that once you’ve dealt with the blushing, you could overspray a light coat of the base color to “fade” the lettering some, and hopefully minimize the blushing. 

 

To respond to your query about which decal solution, I use both, favoring Solvaset for the “sticker” level of decal, and using the Micro Sol/Micro set system for more delicate decals.  Champ Decal Set was my favorite, though.

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Chuck Cover
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2020 6:37 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Help with decals

 

Thank you to everyone who has responded to my questions.  I have a couple of steps that I can now try to get rid of some of that silvering.  The car pictured was painted with Scalecoat and I did not let it dry for the time suggested but it did dry in the Santa Fe sun for at least a day.  I will not rush it in the future.

 

A couple of other questions have come to mind.  Which decal setting solution is favored, Walthers Solvaset or Microscale Micro Sol?  On cars that I have already put Dullcoat over the decals, is there a way to get back to the decals and work to get rid the silvering?

 

Again thank you for your input.

 

Chuck Cover

Santa Fe, NM

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