Re: Coupler Mounting Screws
I used the Kadee plastic screws when I first started building resin kits, and two negatives soon appeared. The first problem was that occasionally a screw would freeze and trying to remove it would strip the head, which required drilling a new hole, filling it with styrene and starting over. The second problem is that the Phillips head on the Kadee screws is large, requiring a #1 Phillips screwdriver instead of the #0 screwdriver I use for metal screws. That can be a problem in tight clearance situations. It’s really quite easy to strip the plastic head, as it’s not deep enough to properly engage the screwdriver tip. I use 1-56 pan Phillips metal machine screws from FMW Fasteners in ¼ in., 3/16 in., and 5/32 in. lengths. I ordered 500 each online, and they should last a lifetime. These screws have a deep Philips head that perfectly fits a #0 screwdriver, and I’ve ever had one fail.
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Mont Switzer
Sent: Friday, July 10, 2020 6:39 AM
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Coupler Mounting Screws
That is how you cut longer bolts and treaded rod in the real world. Always works.
Montford L. Switzer
Switzer Tank Lines, Inc.
Fall Creek Leasing, LLC.
Mont Switzer wrote:
Works equally well with brass screws, Mont. Just turn a nut onto the screw above the cut, make the cut, then turn the nut back off, cleans up the thread, then file if needed. Almost as quick as with plastic.